I just came across a good article from a journalist that just returned from Iran, it's worth checking out:
http://www.slate.com/id/2221152/?from=rss
Some notable quotes, one from the airport on his way out of the country:
People preparing to depart huddled around a lone TV monitor to watch a report about the terrorism being inflicted on the people of Tehran by the protesters. It showed a member of the Basij being beaten with his own baton. It was meant to induce sympathy for the militiamen. People only smiled.
And also his overall assessment of the change that is taking place:
Over the years, I've read several authors describing Iranian society as a place where people live as if they were free—doing all the things that are banned in public behind closed doors, accepting the rules of the Islamic republic as a series of annoyances to be worked around. Over the last few weeks, those doors blew open, and now it feels like the regime is the one acting as if it still has a handle on things.